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Like Proust’s Madeleine, Madrid’s squid sandwich evokes bittersweet memories

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Had Marcel Proust been Madeleine, he would have exchanged Madeleine for a squid sandwich.

When soaked in tea, about 50 pages of Proust’s masterpiece In search of lost timeThe scallop-shaped cake causes a flood of childhood memories, from the aunt who gave the author a treat to the village in northern France where he once stayed.

But Madrid squid sandwiches, especially Elbrillante A restaurant opposite Atocha station — surpasses even Madeleine with a memorable bet. A bite of a simple snack is basically a roll of fried squid that can evoke all sorts of associations. They range from the remake of Spain after the bloody civil war of the country to the brutal 2004 terrorist attack in Atocha. The restaurant even has its own sad story.

The origin of sandwiches lies in a city more than 300 km from the coast and is either mysterious or mysterious. But they are part of Madrid’s unchanging and impressive love for seafood.

Like places like Ankara and Mexico City, the freshness of the fish is Madrid’s pride. The idea is that no matter how far the capital is from the sea, you can summon the most delicious fruits of the deep sea. Some people trace their obsession with the Counter-Reformation and its strict enforcement of the meatless rules during Lent, dating back half a thousand years. Better transport connections in the centuries that followed delivered less foul-smelling fish.

in any case, Elbrillante A popular squid sandwich after it was founded in 1952, just as Spain recovered from the worst post-war hardships.

This dish has also become a staple of restaurants around the city’s 17th-century Plaza Mayor, part of Madrid’s typical tourist experience.However Elbrillante The landlocked cities did not have a well-known business, so they enjoyed their unquestionable position as the best sandwich providers.

This restaurant is in the news for other, more tragic reasons.Survivors killed 191 people in one of Europe’s worst terrorist atrocities when a Jihadi bomb crossed the road at Atocha station Elbrillante..

Then at the end of last month ElbrillanteThe owner, Alfredo Rodriguez, the son of the restaurant’s founder, died suddenly suffering from financial problems. His loss was hit hard in cities that often struggled to return to normal after a pandemic. Restaurant and bar‘Try to deal with the coronavirus.

At the worst moment of the crisis, Rodriguez hurriedly sent a food truck to the Madrid Convention Center, which was converted into a Covid-19 hospital.

Rodriguez had introduced a policy of hiring people over the age of 50 before he died. This is a growing cohort in one of the world. Aging most rapidly society.

Once inside, the results will be displayed Elbrillante, Behind you Atocha and Queen Sofia Center for the Arts (Picasso’s Guernica) in front. The waiter is young and runs around between the tables, but the person who picks up the bill and brews coffee is imposing and of a certain age.

With Madrid Elbrillante I’ve endured a dilapidated city and a dilapidated bar, but I’ve managed to survive the worst and sometimes have a lot of painful memories.

Elbrillante It’s not everyone’s taste. The sandwich squid is soft but contains plenty of grease.Price Cafe solo € 3 at an outdoor table is very high by Spanish standards. And even I, known for the courage to attack my family and friends with unpleasant ingredients, bite my stomach omelet.

And still sit down Terraza so ElbrillanteAs passers-by pass through the table, they experience something that makes Madrid Madrid. I asked the waiter what happened after the owner’s death. “Hayque seguir,” he said — “we must continue.”

Madrid continues after a pandemic, after many indignations and tragedy. It has the right idea. I ordered another coffee and decided that the day was well advanced for a squid sandwich. After all it is 9:30 am.

daniel.dombey@

Like Proust’s Madeleine, Madrid’s squid sandwich evokes bittersweet memories

Source link Like Proust’s Madeleine, Madrid’s squid sandwich evokes bittersweet memories

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